High-performance, Low-power Atmel AVR 8-bit Microcontroller .. A comprehensive set of development tools, application notes and datasheets are available for. The device is manufactured using Atmel’s high density non-volatile memory technology. By combining an This datasheet contains simple code examples that briefly show how to use various parts of the device. .. ATtinyPU. ATtiny ATMEGAPU, ATMEGA16 Datasheet, ATmega16 Pin 16MHz 16kb 8-bit Microcontroller, buy Technical Information – Atmel ATmega16 Datasheet.
|Published (Last):||16 November 2010|
|PDF File Size:||19.86 Mb|
|ePub File Size:||19.2 Mb|
|Price:||Free* [*Free Regsitration Required]|
Originally created David A. There are two options available from them:. If you plan to use the top option aatmel have not yet soldered headers to the breakout board, now would be a good time.
There are several options for bootloading your Atmega chips, a few of which are covered in this tutorial. If qtmel wish to bootload your Atmega chips using your breadboard, an additional part will make your life much easier but is not necessary. If you’ve already worked with microcontrollers, it is likely that you already have a preferred way to wire up a power supply to your board, so go ahead and do it that way.
In case you need some reminders, here are some pictures of one way to go about it. This version uses a 5V regulated power supply.
Add power and ground wires for where your voltage regulator will be.
atmel 16pu datasheet pdf storage – PDF Files
Add power and ground wires at the bottom of your board connecting each rail. Add the power regulator and the lines to power the board. The regulator is a TO package where the Input from the external power supply goes input on the left, ground is in the middle and the 5V output is on the right when facing the front of the regulator. Add power OUT and ground wires that connect to the right and left rails of the breadboard.
Also, add a 10uF capacitor between the IN of the regulator and the ground as well as a 10uF capacitor on the right rail between power and ground. The silver strip on the capacitor signifies the ground leg. Add an LED and a ohm resistor on the left side of your board across from the voltage regulator. An LED attached to power like this is a great troubleshooting trick. You’ll always know when your board is being powered as well as quickly know if your board is being shorted. The red and black wires to the left of the voltage regulator is where your power supply will be plugged in.
Be sure to only attach a power supply that is between V. Any lower and you won’t get 5V out of your regulator. Any higher and your regulator may be damaged. Now that the power-basics are done you are ready to load on the chip! Before moving on, check out this image. It’s a great resource for learning what each of the pins on your Atmega chip do in relation to the Arduino’s functions.
This will clarify a lot of confusion behind why you hook up certain pins the way you do. For even more detailed information, take a peek at the datasheet for the Atmega short version long version. Here’s the sheet for the atmega short version long version. In later steps we will show you how to add a reset switch that takes advantage of this.
Add a 16 MHz external clock between pin 9 and 10, and add two 22 pF capacitors running to ground from each of those pins. Add the small tactile switch so that you can reset the Arduino whenever we’d like and prepare the chip for uploading a new program. A quick momentary press of this switch will reset the chip when needed. Add the switch just above the top of the Atmega chip crossing the gap in the breadboard.
Then, add a wire from the bottom left leg of the switch to the RESET pin of the Atmega chip and a wire from the top left leg of the switch to ground.
If you already have an Arduino printed circuit board running, it is a good idea to go ahead and check the breadboard version you are building with a chip you know works. Pull the chip from your working Arduino and try it on this board. It is actually pin 19 on the Atmega chip. Refer to the pin mapping above to be sure you are plugging it in correctly. Finally, add the LED.
The long leg or the anode connects to the red wire and the short leg or the cathode connects to the ohm resistor going to ground. At this point if you had already programmed your chip somewhere else and didn’t need this breadboard circuit to reprogram the chip, you could stop here.
Arduino – Setting up an Arduino on a breadboard
But part of the fun is in-circuit programming so keep going to really make a full USB-Arduino-circuit on a breadboard! If you haven’t added male headers to your breakout board, you will need to do it now. Curious what all the pin outs are for the SparkFun FT breakout board, just simply flip it over! Now, it’s time to get the USB to serial breakout board talking with your new Arduino setup. And there you have it But wait, there’s another step right? If you pulled your Atmega chip out of your Arduino, it has most likely been programed several times by yourself and so it definitely has been bootloaded, so you won’t need to move any further in this tutorial.
However, if you purchased some extra Atmega or Atmega chips from an online store they will have NOT been bootloaded datasyeet the Arduino bootloader with the 16ph of Daatsheet Industries. What does this mean?
You won’t be able to program your chips using the USB to atmell breakout board and the Arduino software. The uDuino Setup by Tymn Twillman This configuration is similar to the one above but the trick is that the Atmega chip is bootloaded with the Arduino Lilypad bootloader.
The Lilypad runs using the internal clock instead of an external clock and so removes the need for much of the supporting circuitry. Boarduino by Ladyada The Boarduino is a kit you purchase and assemble to create a nice, small breadboard 16lu Arduino set up.
All the common components aymel included on a small PCB so that the Boarduino can easily be added to a breadboard and even removed, in a snap. There are two options for bootloading your chips.
The first being quite easy and the other being a little more tricky. We will cover both.
The documentation and the links to the Arduino Store and to the distributors list can be found in the ArduinoISP product page. Place your Atmega chip into the Arduino board with the divot of the chip facing outward. Then, attach the 6-pin female plug of your AVR programmer to the 6 male header ICSP pins with the plastic nub of the ribbon cable head facing inward. The LED turns red if it is hooked up wrong.
This adapter breaks out the 6 pins from the programmer to 6 inline pins for easy attachment to the breadboard. All the pins are also labeled making it very easy to connect it up to your chip. atmdl
Type of connection…
Don’t worry, if you don’t have an AVR programming adapter you can still bootload without it. It will however be more of a headache to set up. The two images to the left are great references when hooking up a programmer to an Atmega chip without an adapter board. The images will tell you what all the holes in the 6-pin AVR plug are and you will simply need to stick wires in the end and run them to your Atmega chip. This image is a view from the bottom and labels each of the holes.
Take note of the square as to what orientation your cable is in. With the breadboard you prepared above, add two wires for power and ground for your AVR programmer.
Now plug the AVR programming adapter into the breadboard with the GND pin matching up with the ground wire you just ran and the 5V pin matching up with the power wire you just ran. In this step you will need to add the last four wires needed by the AVR programmer for proper bootloading.
Be sure to refer to the Arduino pin mapping for help wiring this up. The black nub of the 6-pin head must be facing upwards towards the Atmega chip.
In the next step, we’ll show you have to use the Arduino software to burn your bootloader! Fire up Arduino and then go to ‘Tools’ and ‘Board’. Choosing the type of board you’d like to use will effect which bootloader you will be put on your chip.
Most commonly you will be using the Diecimilia or the most recent version of Arduino for an Atmega PDIP, however if you’d like to bootload an Arduino Lilypad, Arduino Mini, Arduino Nano, or any of the older Arduino versions, choose the appropriate board.
When done bootloading, the status bar will be updated with the message “Done burning bootloader. Power cycle your Arduino and your new Atmega chip will be running a simple LED blink program with pin 13 if this is not the case, try programming it with one.
If this is working, it was most definitely a success. However, there are times where after minutes it still appears to be bootloading. I found this to be an odd hiccup perhaps it is triple checking the data flow and after giving it ample time, 10 minutes or so, I usually unplug the programmer only to find the burning process to be a success and has ended long ago. I by no means endorse this method and you take all responsibility in whatever may happen to your chip, but in my experience it has been fairly harmless though you should proceed with caution.
It is very possible that you may damage your chip in the process. Add the and decoupling capacitors. Add a reset switch. LED leads on Arduino pin LED on Arduino Pin The pinouts of the Sparkfun FT breakout. Connecting the TX and RX. Bootloading on an Arduino board. Add power and ground. Plug in the AVR adapter. Pick your board type.